Boordy Vineyards was founded in 1945 by Philip Wagner, one of America’s most influential post WWII winemakers. About a decade ago, Boordy’s current owner, UC Davis graduate Rob Deford, began a major replanting of old vineyards, planting new vineyards in Maryland’s Piedmont, and building a modern state of the art winery. As a result, the winery has become one of the most visible examples of the rapid rise in quality of East Coast wines. In this article we review some of Boordy’s new releases. For more on the rapidly improving wines of Maryland, please read our in depth report The Wines of Maryland.
Boordy Vineyards 2019 Albariño Maryland ($22) 90 This is a perfumed, suave and feminine version of Albariño. The bouquet evokes fragrant flowers and white stone fruit. It’s softly textured on the palate (although not as silky as the Albariño Reserve) with medium flavor density. Finishes long with lingering perfumed notes. Harvested Sept 10-29 at 23.3° Brix; 13.6% alc. 1291 cs.
Boordy Vineyards 2019 Landmark Series Chardonnay Dry Bench Reserve Catoctin AVA ($45) 92 A superbly balanced wine showing a bouquet of orange blossom, pear, and just a hint of sweet barrel spice. The open knit yellow fruit flavors are appealing, too, but it’s the suave, expansive mouth feel from aging in barrel on the lees that sets this Chardonnay apart from others. Finishes precise with good textural tension. This single vineyard Chardonnay is sourced from the South Mountain Vineyard, then fermented and aged sur lie in used French oak barrels for 5 months. Only 12% alc. Exclusive to members of the wine club–another good reason to join.
Boordy Vineyards 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Dry Bench Reserve Long Green Vineyard Maryland 91 One could easily mistake this for a wine from the Loire. It offers an excellent balance of fruit and savory herbal elements with mouthwatering freshness. The acidity is there, but it’s not agressive, and the finish is long and rich. We would suggest having this wine with seafood and vegetables. Harvested Sept 8 at 18.5° Brix; 12% alc. 210 cs.
Boordy Vineyards 2020 Viognier Dry Bench Reserve Catoctin AVA Maryland ($35) 90+ Showing a multifaceted nose of stone fruit and almond with a hint of beeswax, the Viognier has a creamy smooth, perfumed palate with flavors that mirror the nose. Low alcohol for a wine that tastes this lush and ripe. Harvested Sept 29 at 22° Brix; 12% alc. 189 cs.
Boordy Vineyards 2017 Merlot South Mountain Vineyard Maryland ($30) 91 Dark red berries and cherries are complemented by notes of underbrush and toasty oak on the nose. In terms of flavors, the palate mirrors the nose. It’s well balanced with a full mid-palate, good freshness and balance and attractive layers of fruit and more savory notes. Finishes with good length and richness. Clone 348 hand-picked and matured in 30% new French oak for 14 months. Very pleasant drinking. Harvested at 23.8 Brix at the end of September; 13.3% alc.
Boordy Vineyards 2017 Landmark Reserve South Mountain Vineyard Maryland ($50) 92 Introduced by a melange of savory and fruity scents, fully ripe Cabernet Sauvignon was blended with other Bordeaux varieties to offer a continuation of the savory-fruity theme on a balanced, medium weight, mineral-inflected palate. Cassis, huckleberry, savory herbs and hints of toasted oak all put in an appearance. Will pair with a wide variety of meat and fowl dishes. 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc aged in French oak for 18 months. 13.5% alc.
Boordy Vineyards 2017 Lost Order No. 191 South Mountain Vineyard Maryland ($60) 92 This well-made wine opens with rich fruit complemented by earth notes. It’s full in the mouth and packed with tantalizing and complex flavors of dark red berries, plum, and herbs. Finishes long with excellent extract and round tannins. Very good. 62% Petite Verdot, 26% Merlot, 12% Syrah harvested Sep 28 – Oct 13; matured 18 months in 25% new French oak. 13.4% alc. 282 cs.
Boordy Vineyards 2017 South Mountain Red Maryland ($26) 90 Restrained in the nose, this Merlot based red blend offers a complex array of dark red fruit and earthy herbs with hints of oak on the palate. It’s well balanced with medium density and firm but accessible tannins. Finishes with good focus. 62% Merlot, 18% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon matured in 20% new French oak for 10 months. 12.8% alc.