We were impressed with the quality of Suavia’s wines when we reviewed them for Report # 35 The Wines of Soave, so we were delighted to have the opportunity recently to taste the current releases with Alessandra Tessari, who makes the wines with her two sisters, Valentine and Meri. For reviews of other current releases of top Soave producers, see our Special Report #46 The Best of Soave, released in March of this year. The Suavia current releases were not yet available at the time of that report.
The Suavia winery is located in the small (115 inhabitants) of Fittá (in the background in the photo below), and its key vineyards of Le Rive and Monte Carbonare are located nearby. Both vineyards have dark, volcanic soil, as is suggested by the name Carbonare (coal). The vineyards and the quantity of wines produced are small.
Le Rive (“steep slope” in the local dialect) is just 1.5 ha and is a very old, south-facing vineyard planted in 1942. It is low yielding with just 3 to 4 clusters per vine. Its aspect contributes to the sunny, ripe character of the fruit. Monte Carbonare (shown in the foreground in the photo) is larger (3 ha) and windy with a northwest exposure that contributes to its freshness and bright acidity. As shown below, the wines have attractive, new labels.
The US importer is Winebow.
Suavia 2014 Soave Classico ($25) 87 This generic Soave is a blend of fruit from vineyards throughout the region. Unfortunately, 2014 was not kind to Soave, and this wine reflects the vintage. It shows good acidity and freshness with mineral notes and green fruit on a light weight palate. A good wine to drink well-chilled this summer.
Suavia 2013 Monte Carbonare Soave Classico ($40) 93 An elegant, silky wine from a superb Grand Cru single vineyard in a superb vintage. While it will take years for this wine to reveal its full potential, its extremely enjoyable in its youth. Superbly balanced with bright acidity, richness of fruit, and stony minerals, the 2013 Monte Carbonare shows the heights that Soave Classico can reach. One of the best Soaves we’ve tasted. 30 thousand bottles produced.
Suavia 2011 Le Rive Bianco Veronese IGT ($50) 92 Le Rive is Suavia’s experimental wine. It could be sold as a Soave Classico, but is sold an IGT since it doesn’t fit he classic Soave style. It opens with a complex yet subtle nose showing almond, ripe citrus and vanilla bean. The palate is beautifully balance with bright mineral notes complementing the light honeyed, stone fruit character that comes from harvesting the grapes late and slightly shriveled. Aged 24 months in 70% stainless steel and 30% French barriques. Just 7 thousand bottles produced.
Suavia 2012 Massifitti Bianco Veronese IGT ($35) 91 Made from a new clone of Trebbiano di Soave identified with University of Milan scientists, Massifitti shows stony minerality and salinity accompanied by notes of grapefruit pith, lemon zest, and a light hint of tropical cherimoya. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, the wine spends 15 months sur lie with battonage. Suavia is the only winery to make a single varietal Trebbiano di Soave, an early-ripening grape of small, compact clusters and low yields.
Suavia 2009 Acinatium Recioto di Soave ($60/375ml) 92 The Acinatum is made of dessicated Garganega grapes and, thus, offers a level of sweetness and candied, ripe stone fruit and citrus notes on a viscous, suave palate that combine beautifully with creamy, white cheeses. Excellent.