Ingrid Groiss is one of the winemaking stars of Austria’s Weinviertel region. While best known for her Grüner Veltliner grown on the area’s loess soils, she also makes an outstanding Gemischter Satz (field blend) from her grandmother’s old vineyard as well as a stunning, authentic rosé of Pinot Noir and Zweigelt. Our reviews of the wines follow. Watch for our forthcoming report on Austria, an update of our earlier Report # 25 The Wines of Austria.
Ingrid’s road to winemaking is a convoluted one. Coming from a winemaking family with vineyards and a heuriger (wine tavern) in Breitenwaida near the Czech border, she wanted to be a winemaker from an early age. However, fate took her in different directions. She earned a degree in economics and worked in marketing in Bremen and Berlin until she decided to follow her first love and enroll in a winemaking program at the University of Vienna. She then worked with producers like Domaine Wachau, Birgit Eichinger in Kamptal, and Birgit Braunstein in Leithaberg before farming her grandmother’s Schablau vineyard and starting her own wine label in 2010. She now manages all the family’s vineyards and makes the wines, too.
Her panoply of vineyards now includes her grandmother’s 50 year old Fahndorf vineyard planted to 17 different varieties on gravel and sandstone soils; a vineyard in Haugsdorf with loess soils that’s ideally suited for Grüner Veltliner; and vineyards near home in Breitenwaida where one finds the single vineyards Pankraz and Sauberg with their marl lime and gravel soils.
US Importer: Circo Vino
Tasting Notes and Ratings
Groiss 2017 Grüner Veltliner Weinviertel ($21) 91 Made from the fruit of several vineyards, this is one of the best generic Grüner Veltliners we’ve tasted from the 2017 vintage. It’s incredibly fresh with chalky minerals and racy acidity and good mid palate density of tangy citrus with a verbena edge. Very good.
Groiss 2017 Gemischter Satz Braitenpuechtorff Niederösterreich ($24) 90 This is a field blend of at least 17 different grape varieties, including old autochthonous ones like Hietl Rote and Grau Vöslauer that have largely disappeared from the Weinviertel vineyard. The wine offers exotic whiffs of honeysuckle and peach blossom and a bright, fresh palate of citrus and white stone fruit, finishing on a chalky note.
Groiss 2017 Grüner Veltliner Braitenpuechtorff Weinviertel ($30) 91 This Grüner Veltliner is a blend of vineyards from three different villages, the names of which are disassembled and reassembled into the name Braitenpuechtorff. It offers an enticing bright citrus and wet stone bouquet, but it’s the creamy palate and its palpable density and length that’s most special.
Groiss 2017 Rosé Weinviertel ($24) 91 A 70/30 blend of Pinot Noir and Zweigelt offers succulent, light red cherry, cranberry and berry fruit. Beautifully fresh and lively with a stony mineral accent and crisp, chiseled finish. Cultivated, harvested and direct pressed for rosé. The Pinot Noir comes from an old family parcel in Haugsdorf grown on calcareous soil.
Groiss 2016 Gruner Veltliner in der Schablau Weinviertel ($34) 93 Light straw. Made from 50 year old vines, this Gruner Veltliner offers scents of fresh tobacco and green peppercorn. Showing surprising mineral like density on the mid palate, it is a harmonious, elegant wine that should evolve beautifully. Finishes with a rich, stony extract.
Groiss 2016 Gruner Veltliner Pankraz Reserve Weinviertel ($51) 92 Sourced from old vines planted on marl, gravel and sand and fermented and matured in used 500L oak, 20 percent whole bunch, the single vineyard Pankraz Gruner Veltliner offers flinty minerals and fruit notes of quince and pear. A firm backbone of vibrant acidity gives this wine excellent aging potential.
Groiss 2016 Gruner Veltliner Sauberg Tradition Niederösterreich ($54) 92 Old vine Gruner Veltliner fermented and aged in 500L used oak, the Sauberg Tradition offers flint-infused melon and stone fruit aromas and flavors. There’s a firm mineral structure with a dense fruit core and citrus acidity, finishing rich and thick. 13.5 alc