La Colombera is a boutique, Piedmont winery located near Tortona, 78 km directly north of Genoa. It is owned by winemaker Piercarlo and daughter Elisa Semino. They grow indigenous grapes like Timorasso and Croatina for the distinctive and delicious wines reviewed here. In 2000 they began to resuscitate the old Timorasso variety, a rare white wine that improves with time in bottle and in 2006 produced their first wines from the variety. Derthona is a blend of four different vineyards within the 22 hectare La Colombera estate, all with southeast exposure. Altitudes range from 220 to 300 meters. Il Montino is a single vineyard cru from clay soils and a southeast exposure. The importer is Indigenous Selections.
La Colombera 2012 Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi ($28) 91 Minerals, lemon, and garden thyme show on the nose of this delicious, densely flavored wine. The flavors are rich with honeyed mandarin notes, yet the wine is exceedingly fresh and bright. Bracing acidity and lingering fruit extract show on the finish. Fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees for 9 months with weekly battonage. The winery recommends aging this wine, preferably for about five years.
La Colombera 2011 Il Montino Timorasso Colli Tortonesi ($38) 91 Il Montino reveals pear, white peach and tea aromas and flavors with a lanolin like texture and a long, densely flavored finish. It shows a hint of sweetness and should pair superbly with spicy Asian dishes or chicken peri-peri.
La Colombera 2011 Arché Croatina Colli Tortonesi ($29) 89 Arché is a medium weight, fruit forward, pleasant drinking wine made from 22 year old Croatina grapes from the Il Montino vineyard, partially dried on the vine. It shows bright acidity and light earth notes complementing spicy, black cherry fruit, finishing with firm, fairly dry tannins. Aged 12+ months in tonneaux.